An introduction to the temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park, near Siem Reap, Cambodia, for the first-time visitor – practical advice

By Rick’s Café Noir – 10 October 2025 (updated 14 Jan 2026, in bold italics – access to the 3rd level of Angkor Wat, the Bakan)

---

Many tourists going to Cambodia will visit the temples at Angkor. What they are actually exploring is the Angkor Archaeological Park, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992 – a must-see site for travel photographers and history buffs, and not to be missed.

This guide is written in three parts.

Part 1 is an introduction to the Angkor temples – a historical overview and some clarification.

This Part 2 contains practical advice for visiting the temples – click on the links below in Part 2 to read the contents listed.

Part 3 has some general advice on photography, and some useful resources.

Part 1 – historical overview and clarification:

• The Angkor Archaeological Park
• Temple Timeline
• What is Angkor Wat?
• The Face Towers of Angkor
• Tree Roots Growing Over Stone
• Apsaras or Devatas
• Other Posts on the Angkor Temples

Part 2 – use the links below to jump to:

• Visiting the Temples
• Small Tour Circuit
• Grand Tour Circuit
• Opening Hours
• Sun Exposure
• Accessibility
• Toilets
• Water and Food
• Landmines
• Ticket Pricing
• Other Posts on the Angkor Temples
• Camera Gear

Part 3 – general advice for photographers, and resources:

• Advice for Photographers
• The Best Temple Guidebook
• Resources
• Last Thoughts
• Other Posts on the Angkor Temples

---

Visiting the Temples

The Angkor Archaeological Park covers a large area near Siem Reap town – in the NW Cambodian province of Siem Reap – between the Tonle Sap lake to the south and the Phnom Kulen hills to the north-east.

The Angkor Archaeological Park contains over 80 temples and monuments built by the Khmer kings who ruled this vast kingdom north of the Tonle Sap lake – including capital cities, and temples and monasteries to house Hindu and Buddhist divinities. So what is the best way to visit them?

Traditionally, there are two routes you can take around the Park, known as the Small Tour Circuit and the Grand Tour Circuit, although, of course, you do not have to follow these routes – you can make your own route. These routes date back to the early 20th century, when tourists first started visiting the temples.

Tuk-tuk and car drivers usually have set daily rates for these routes. These rates can vary, depending on demand – there are a lot of tuk-tuk drivers and the number of tourists visiting the temples is down since the pre-pandemic peak.

Since the pandemic, tourist numbers have not really picked up much, so this is reflected in the rates – sometimes as low as $15 for the day. Numbers are gradually increasing now, but nowhere near the pre-pandemic peak, so budget around $20 for the day – a little more if you want to include sunrise and sunset (a long day!), the Grand Tour Circuit, or more out-of-the-way temples like Banteay Srei. If the driver knows that you have a 3-day or 7-day pass they may give you a better price, in the hope that you will continue to use them for several days.

In Australia, we rarely tip, but if the driver provides a really good service, tip them – Americans will be used to this. Buy them lunch, and learn about their family. Remember, they may have quoted a low price to get the work, and may be supporting an extended family. It can be a precarious existence.

For that $20 you get a driver for the day. When they drop you off at a temple they will park their tuk-tuk in a parking area amongst a sea of other tuk-tuks, so make sure you can identify your tuk-tuk when you return. Drivers will sometimes sleep while you visit the temple, or play on their phones, or improve their language skills online if they really want to get more more customers. What they will not do is be your guide around the temple.

Official guides have to be licensed by the Cambodian Ministry of Tourism, so if you intend to use one, make sure they are licensed, and be aware that if a guide seems to be really cheap, they may not be licensed.

You will pay extra for a guide, negotiable depending on demand, and additional to the tuk-tuk driver’s fee. Hotels and guesthouse can usually recommend reputable guides. I have never used one. I prefer to do my own research and carry a good guidebook.

The quality of guides vary, particularly regarding language skills and knowledge of the temples. I was once photographing the carvings on the steps near the waterline of the Royal Pond in Angkor Thom when a guide-led group of tourists stopped on the rise above, looking down on the pond. The guide mentioned the dimensions of the pond, the depth of the water, and what it was used for, but said nothing about the carvings on the steps – the main reason for visiting the Royal Pond! I prefer a good guidebook.

Over the years I have had drivers with very poor English, or who objected to changes of itinerary, or were dangerous drivers – one of them veered off the sealed road at the temples and almost overturned the tuk-tuk on the sloping verge! He was actually the cousin of the driver I had arranged to pick me up the day before, who could not make it. So, if you get a good driver, use them for further trips.

If another tourist recommends a good driver, it may be a good idea to use them. The drivers are relying on word-of-mouth recommendations to keep working. Hotels and guesthouses often have a group of tuk-tuk and car drivers they use – usually more expensive, but usually reliable. Sometimes they are extended-family members, so they will be accommodating, and not want to let down the owner of manager of the hotel or guesthouse.

The riskiest, and cheapest, option is to pick a random driver off the street, of which there are many, which is what I usually do!

Talk to them, assess their language skills, if that is important to you – you can always point to temples on an Angkor map, which will sometimes have Khmer script as well as English, or point to your watch or phone to arrange times. Over the years, and many trips to the temples, I have found older drivers to be more reliable, and safer, than younger drivers. Not always the case, I know, but something to consider.

There are many places to stay and eat in Siem Reap – for details and reviews check the many websites, blogs, forums, and guidebooks. Be aware that many of the reviews date from before the pandemic and may not apply now. If the most recent review is dated 2019, the business may not even exist now. During the pandemic, many guesthouses, hotels, bars, cafes, and restaurants closed, as there were hardly any tourists. Many never reopened, some have changed ownership – so pre-pandemic reviews may be useless.

The guesthouse I stayed in before the pandemic closed, and is now a motorbike hire shop. The Blue Pumpkin Bakery and restaurant near the I Viva Mexican restaurant closed, and is now an Indian restaurant. So, there have been quite a few changes in Siem Reap as a result of the pandemic. On a positive note, though, the town’s authorities took advantage of the lack of tourists during the pandemic to upgrade infrastructure, so improved roads, paving, drainage, etc.

[Back to Top]

Small Tour Circuit

The Small Tour Circuit takes in Angkor Wat, then heads a kilometre north to enter the city of Angkor Thom via the South Gate to visit the Bayon, and the Royal Terraces (Elephant and Leper King), and maybe the Baphuon, then exit via the eastern Victory Gate, maybe take in Thommanon, Chau Say Tevoda, and Ta Keo, definitely Ta Prohm, and maybe Banteay Kdei and Srah Srang.

You can of course do this route in reverse order by visiting Srah Srang for the sunrise, and then heading across the road (literally) to Banteay Kdei, where you may be the only visitor and have the temple to yourself. Or, after Srah Srang, go to the nearby Ta Prohm temple, and again, be one of the first ones there – two hours later (after hotel breakfast) there will be coachloads of visitors!

If are you limited to a one-day visit the Small Tour Circuit will enable you to see the major temples, and a few smaller ones, but it will be a rush. You will also not necessarily be at a particular temple at the best time of day for photography. You will be there at the same time as a lot of other tourists.

You will probably be templed-out at the end of the day, especially if you started early to see the sunrise over Angkor Wat, and then stay for the sunset from Phnom Bakheng. From starting at your hotel in Siem Reap to finally getting back there in the evening is a long day – a 14-hour day! I have done it a few times – it was exhausting every time.

[Back to Top]

Grand Tour Circuit

The Grand Tour Circuit is even more ambitious, and slightly more expensive, due to the extra distance involved. This route assumes you have already done the small circuit so avoids stopping at Angkor Wat, and passes through Angkor Thom via the South and North Gates, then on to the first stop at Preah Khan temple, maybe Krol Ko and Neak Pean, then Ta Som, East Mebon and Pre Rup, and maybe Ta Prohm, Banteay Kdei, and Srah Srang on the way back to Siem Reap.

Another exhausting day, for sure! Not much time at each temple, and again, you will be there at the same time as a lot of other tourists. It’s even more exhausting if you take in the sunrise and sunset.

My advice would be to spend more than one day visiting the temples and be selective about what you see – you don’t have to see everything in one day. Make your own circuit and choose temples and times to get the best photographic conditions, and fewer tourists. That takes a bit of research and planning, and my various posts may be able to help you there. Be sure to agree the route, timing, and price with your driver before you start, and expect any deviations from the agreed route to cost extra.

[Back to Top]

Opening hours for the Angkor temples

These are the current opening hours for the temples, taken from the Angkor Enterprises website:

• The ticket office at the entry to the Angkor park is open from 5:00am to 5:30pm. Entry tickets purchased after 4:45pm are valid starting the next day, but also allow you to see the sunset that day and not count as one of your uses. You have to drive through the checkpoint at the ticket office on all trips to the temples to have your Visitor’s Pass checked and clipped.
• The Angkor temples generally are open from 7:30am to 5:30pm. An early start at 7:30am at the popular temples like the Bayon and Ta Prohm means there will be very few people there – many tourists will still be eating breakfast at their hotels.
• Angkor Wat and Srah Srang lake both open at 5:00am for the sunrise, and close at 5:30pm. As it will be totally dark at that time (no lighting) it pays to scout out the location beforehand, in daylight, so you know where to be for the best shots. Wear a headtorch, and get there as early as you can to get the spot you want – lots of people want to be in a similar, or the same, location! Note also that the 3rd level of Angkor Wat (the Bakan) does not open until 6:40am, and closes at 5:00pm. Note also that the Bakan is subject to strict visitor limits – no more than 100 visitors are allowed at any time, with a maximum visit time of 15 minutes (updated 14 Jan 2026). Gone are the days of spending an hour or two photographing the many devatas, so my advice would be to concentrate on the pairs of devatas guarding the four doorways of the central sanctuary, which are probably the finest carvings anywhere at the Angkor temples.
• Phnom Bakheng and Pre Rup both open at 5:00am and close at 7:00pm. After the sunset it will be totally dark (no lighting) so pack a headtorch to navigate down the hill at Phnom Bakheng, or down steep steps at Pre Rup. Note that Phnom Bakheng has a 300-person limit at all times of the day.
• Check the calendar for Buddhist holy days, when the 3rd level of Angkor Wat (the Bakan) will be closed for Buddhist ceremonies. These holy days often occur around Buddhist festivals, such as the Water Festival in November each year, and on full moon days. If your visit is short, and you particularly want to access the 3rd level of Angkor Wat, check the Buddhist calendar before you book anything! Due to the heavy flow of tourists every day, the Bakan is also closed every Sunday for cleaning and maintenance (updated 14 Jan 2026).

[Back to Top]

Sun exposure

Cambodia has a tropical monsoon climate, so it’s hot all year round, and wet more than it is dry. The “cooler” dry season is from November to February, and is the most popular time for tourists to visit, so if you visit at that time, expect crowds.

If you are not used to high temperatures be careful not to get heat stressed, which can lead to heat exhaustion and heat stroke. Take it easy, and stay hydrated.

There’s not a lot of shade at the temples so you will be exposed to the sun a lot of the time. Wear clothes that cover you to avoid burning, sunscreen, and a hat – observe the locals who work outside around the temples, fully covered from head to toe, including gloves! Some visitors carry umbrellas.

Covering up is required at the temples to a certain extent to be respectful – you are visiting religious buildings still in use, not the beach – and the temple guardians who check your tickets at the entry points won’t let you in if you are showing too much skin. This is variably enforced at different temples, but access to the 3rd level of Angkor Wat has strict dress standards – you even have to remove your hat before climbing the steps.

Of course, wearing a hat with a big enough brim to protect your face is a problem for photographers – landscape aspect shots are fine, but portrait aspect shots are impossible. Some photographers wear a baseball cap on backwards, but this does not protect the face or ears.

My solution is to wear a small-brimmed bucket-style hat – to protect the top of my head, ears and forehead – so I can easily shoot in landscape or portrait – and either a shemagh or a traditional Khmer krama scarf around my neck. Either type of scarf is very versatile, and can be wrapped around to cover the whole head/face if necessary – useful on the drive back to Siem Reap with all the exhaust fumes and dirt, especially if you do not have a mask. The scarf is also useful for mopping up sweat, like a towel, although I have seen photographers with hand-towels for that purpose.

You also need to be reasonably fit. You will be climbing up and down steps everywhere. For example, to get from ground level to the central sanctuary on the third level of Angkor Wat you need to climb up a total of 150 steps, and then climb down again.

[Back to Top]

Accessibility

Sad to say, but none of the Angkor temples are wheelchair-friendly. None! There are no ramps or lifts for wheelchair access (baby strollers have the same problem). So there are some things to consider if you are mobility-challenged.

There are many steps, everywhere. Even to pass through a doorway you will have to climb two or three steps up to the threshold, and then descend again on the other side. At Angkor Wat there is a long wooden stair from the cruciform galleries to the second level, and then a steep wooden stair up to the third level (this stair follows the angle of the original stone steps over which it is built – about 70 degrees – but with handrails). These stairs are wide enough for people to comfortably pass you, so take your time.

In places, there are fallen stones to negotiate, uneven pathways, boardwalks, and dirt paths from the outer enclosure entry gates to the temple proper. If you are ambulant disabled it is doable, with care, but it pays to know your limits. Visit with a partner or friend if possible, even consider paying a local to accompany and assist you.

If you are wheelchair-bound it will be hard, and in many cases, impossible to explore inside the temples. If you have some helpers to manhandle you, plus a wheelchair, over a few obstacles, you could see the extensive bas-reliefs at the Bayon, but get there early to avoid the crowds.

If you are able to walk a few metres, but then need to sit down to rest, it may be worth bringing along a collapsible wheelchair, or a walking frame that incorporates a seat – both of which could be carried for you by a partner or friend, or even by a local if you are prepared to pay them.

At Angkor Wat the newly restored stone causeway over the moat is doable in a wheelchair, and you could probably return the same way, even though you are supposed to return over what was a temporary floating plastic pontoon installed whilst the stone causeway was being restored – which moves like a giant waterbed – and has steeply sloping access at each end on to the flat section on the water.

Even the ambulant disabled could probably return via the newly restored causeway, especially if you obviously have difficulty walking. The image below was taken before the causeway restoration. The newly restored causeway looks similar to the right-hand side shown below.

The real challenge once you cross the moat is climbing the steps up to the three gopuras in the centre of the western gate (no ramp) and down again to ground level, or to the elevated stone causeway that leads to the temple proper. This stone causeway is uneven, about 400 metres long, with no shade. Then you get to the temple proper and many more steps up from ground level to Level 1 to view the extensive bas-relief carvings in the galleries.

However, even if you only make it through the Western Gate, Angkor Wat is awesome! I have been to Angkor Wat many times and I never cease to be awed by the sheer scale of the building. The approach along the stone causeway is magnificent, so take your time and soak up the awesomeness!

There is another option, though. After crossing the moat, instead of trying to tackle the steps up to the central three gopuras of the Western Gate, walk to the far northern or southern pavilions at the ends of the gate. The entries at these locations are nominally at ground level, originally to facilitate the entry of carts and elephants into the temple grounds, although they now have three steps up and down as you pass through!

More walking, but fewer steps to climb up and down, so doable if you are ambulant disabled, but problematic in a wheelchair without some assistance. Once through the pavilions you have a good view of the five central towers of the 3rd level. You then have the option of climbing a few steps onto the elevated stone causeway and approaching the temple proper.

You can also stay at ground level and do a complete circuit around the outside of the temple, exiting via the pavilion at the opposite end of the Western Gate to the one in which you entered. The views of the temple are excellent, but it is a long walk in full sun.

Not all the temples are mountains of stone with many steps, though. Banteay Srei is at road level, as are the temples of Thommanon and Chau Say Tevoda – literally on opposite sides of the road after you exit Angkor Thom via the eastern Victory Gate, on the way to Ta Prohm. These two temples rarely have many visitors and yet they have some beautiful devata carvings, and are easily accessible.

Even if you can only view the temples from a compacted dirt path they are still awe inspiring, and well worth the effort. Angkor Wat is truly amazing, even when viewed from afar!

If you are interested in some very detailed information regarding accessibility at Angkor Wat, read this survey, published in 2021 at ResearchGate. The survey was undertaken between 2015 and 2019 by the Apsara Authority and two Japanese universities, Komatsu University and Kanazawa University. Nothing much has changed since the survey, but it does highlight the accessibility problems you will encounter if you decide to visit.

If you are accessibility-challenged in any way, and have managed to see some of the temples, please leave a comment below and I will update this post. I am sure there will be many other people interested in your experiences – particularly which temples you visited, and how you managed. In fact, if I receive enough feedback I may make this section on accessibility into a separate post.

[Back to Top]

Toilets

To the bathroom-challenged, there may be a few problems – not so much concerning availability, because there are plenty of toilet facilities at the temples, but they are not everywhere, and you may not be near one when you need it. Your tuk-tuk or taxi driver will know where the nearest toilets are.

I recommend you use the facilities at the main temples when you have the opportunity, as there may be none, or very basic facilities at the smaller sites. As Jack Nicholson’s character in the movie The Bucket List says, one of the things to remember when you get older, “never pass up a bathroom”.

This is a list of toilets at the main Angkor temples, mostly western-style, and free to use with a valid Visitor’s Pass:

• Angkor Wat has excellent quality facilities near the main shopping/eating complex close to the entry point, wheelchair accessible.
• Ta Prohm has good facilities, but with limited accessibility.
• Banteay Srei has basic facilities with minimal accessibility.
• Bayon has good facilities, but with basic accessibility.
• Beng Mealea has clean facilities near the ticket office/entrance.
• Ta Prohm has good facilities, but with limited accessibility.

There are some facilities at other temples and your driver will know where they are, but they may be squat toilets, and be very basic. It is always a good idea to carry toilet paper and wet wipes with you. If you have continence problems, maybe wear continence pants, but you already knew that.

If you find some toilet facilities at the other temples, good or bad, please leave a comment and I will update the list above.

[Back to Top]

Water and food

Take plenty of drinking water. You will probably sweat a lot, so don’t risk dehydration. Although you can buy water and other drinks at many places in Angkor, it’s expensive, so if you are on a tight budget, take it with you.

Food is available at many places, too. From small food stalls amongst the souvenir stalls, to cafés and restaurants, such as the sit-down Angkor Wat Café opposite the main entry to Angkor Wat (which used to be the Blue Pumpkin Café), there is a good choice. I’ve never had a bad meal at the temples, and never been sick from eating there.

Note that the Angkor Archaeological Park has been smoke-free since 2012, except in designated areas – where these are I have no idea, not being a smoker, but if you know of any, please leave a comment and I will update this post.

[Back to Top]

Landmines

I know this section may sound melodramatic to some, but no advice for visitors to the Angkor temples would be complete without mentioning landmines. This is not meant to put you off, just to make you aware of the problem that Cambodia continues to deal with, decades after the civil war ended.

As a result of the long civil war in Cambodia, the country has been left to deal with millions of unexploded landmines and other ordnance. This has affected the whole country, particularly rural areas, and especially in the northwest of the country, near the border with Thailand, where the Khmer Rouge retreated to, and made their final (unsuccessful) stand against Thai and Vietnamese military forces. Since the final defeat of the Khmer Rouge in the late 1990s, unexploded ordnance has caused the deaths of over 60,000 people.

Beginning in the early 1990s, a concerted effort was made to clear the land, resulting in the removal of about four million munitions – that still leaves an estimated six million munitions undetected. Landmine clearance is ongoing, and about 1,000 sq. kms (386 sq. mi.) still need to be cleared. Unexploded ordnance not only affects tourism, but agriculture in particular, with much productive land wasted until it has been cleared.

So how does this affect your visit to the Angkor temples?

Thankfully, not much really, so do not let this dissuade you from visiting – but note that a lot depends on where you go. As tourism is a major contributor to the Cambodian economy, the areas around the Angkor temples have been cleared. It is only when you visit the more remote outlying temples – such as Banteay Chhmar (double “h”, not a typo!), Beng Mealea, Preah Vihear, the Kulen Hills, etc – that some caution is needed.

In those locations, all the temples and pathways will have been cleared, but I would not recommend wandering off the track into the jungle. I keep to the well-worn paths made by the locals. Am I being overcautious? Maybe, but we all have different risk profiles, and I do not want to end up as a statistic. Better safe than dead!

[Back to Top]

---

Ticket Pricing

Ticket prices, payable in US$ at the official ticket centre, or by credit card online, are, at the time of writing (2025):

1 Day – US$37

3 Day – US$62 (valid for ten days)

7 Day – US$72 (valid for one month)

Online tickets sales are here, click on the green “Buy Tickets” button:

https://angkorenterprise.gov.kh

The tickets have been these prices for 8 years now, since 2017. At that time, many tourism operators thought the price increase, from US$20/$40/$62 respectively, would be detrimental to visitor numbers. This has not been borne out by visitor number statistics, the COVID pandemic period notwithstanding.

The 7-Day ticket for US$72 is an absolute bargain, even if you only use it for four days. Where else in the world can you visit an historical site of this magnitude for only US$10.30 a day?

You will be issued with a laminated Visitor’s Pass with your photo on it (taken when you buy the ticket), which you have to show at every temple to gain entry.

The Visitor’s Pass allows you visit all the temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park near Siem Reap, and also includes access to the more distant temples of Banteay Srei, Bakong, Preah Koh, the Roluos Group, and Beng Mealea (which used to be an additional charge, on top of the Angkor visitor’s pass, but not any more).

Additional charges of US$10 are made on-site for access to the more far away temples of Beng Mealea (but only if you do not have a valid Angkor visitor’s pass), Koh Ker, Preah Vihear, Sambor Prei Kuk, Banteay Chhmar (double “h”, not a typo!), and Preah Khan of Kompong Svay.

There is also an Angkor Special Pass, a free yearly pass for foreigners and investors who have lived in Cambodia for at least two years. Apply online here, and click the green “Special Pass” button:

https://angkorenterprise.gov.kh

Note that there are some age restrictions to some parts of the temples, which you should take into account when planning where to go if you are visiting the temples with children.

Children under 12 years old are not allowed access to:

• The 3rd level of Angkor Wat, the Bakan (very steep wooden stairs).
• The Phnom Bakheng summit (steep, narrow stone steps).
• The upper levels of Ta Keo (steep, narrow stone steps).
• The stairs up to the higher levels of the Baphuon, (again, steep wooden stairs).

It is recommended that you carry your child’s passport with you at the temples to prove their age – some twelve-year-olds look younger than others.

Those restrictions for children under 12 years old, listed above, also apply to visibly pregnant women and people with heart conditions (updated 14 Jan 2026). The access at those locations is hazardous, especially the steep, and very narrow, stone steps worn smooth by feet and the weather for centuries, so you are being restricted for your own safety.

[Back to Top]

---

Other Posts on the Angkor Temples

This post, Part 2, contains practical advice for visiting the temples.

Part 1 is a general introduction to Angkor, mainly a historical overview and some clarification.

Part 3 contains general photographic advice and some useful resources for researching the temples, including a list of other posts in this series that will address individual temples, listed below, with tips for getting the most out of your visit photographically. These blog posts, based on my experiences, may help you get some great images.

If there is a hyperlink in the list below, I have published the post. I hope you will be inspired!

• Angkor Thom – Ancient Khmer City
• Angkor Thom – Elephant Terrace
• Angkor Thom – Royal Palace Compound & Phimeanakas Temple
• Angkor Thom – Suor Prat, the Khleangs, and Preah Pitu
• Angkor Thom – Terrace of the Leper King
• Angkor Wat – Introduction
• Angkor Wat – Sunrise and Sunset
• Angkor Wat – Western Gate
• Angkor Wat – Eastern Gate
• Angkor Wat – Cruciform Galleries
• Angkor Wat – 2^nd Level
• Angkor Wat – 3^rd Level
• Banteay Kdei
• Banteay Samre
• Banteay Srei
• Baphuon
• Bayon – Face Towers
• Bayon – Bas-reliefs
• Bayon – Devatas and Apsaras
• Face Towers at the Angkor Temples
• Preah Khan – Eastern Entry
• Preah Khan – Hall of Dancers
• Preah Khan – Central Courtyards
• Preah Khan – Western Entry
• Ta Prohm
• Ta Prohm – Tree Roots
• Tree Roots at the Angkor Temples

[Back to Top]

---

Camera Gear

All images in this post were shot either:

• Using Fuji Sensia transparency film in Olympus OM1 cameras, with Zuiko lenses – transparencies were then scanned using a Nikon ED5000 film scanner and processed in Photoshop
• Or, shot in RAW using digital Nikon camera bodies, with Nikkor Pro f2.8 lenses, and then processed in Lightroom and Photoshop.
• Or, shot in RAW using digital Olympus OMD camera bodies, with Zuiko PRO f2.8 lenses, and then processed in Lightroom and Photoshop.

All images Copyright ©2025 Rick Piper Photography (unless noted otherwise). All rights reserved.

[Back to Top]

An introduction to the temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park, near Siem Reap, Cambodia, for the first-time visitor – photographic advice and resources

By Rick’s Café Noir – 10 October 2025

---

Many tourists going to Cambodia will visit the temples at Angkor. What they are actually exploring is the Angkor Archaeological Park, designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992 – a must-see site for travel photographers and history buffs, and not to be missed.

This guide is written in three parts.

Part 1 is an introduction to the Angkor temples – a historical overview and some clarification.

Part 2 contains practical advice for visiting the temples.

This Part 3 has some general advice on photography, and some useful resources – click on the links below in Part 3 to read the contents listed.

Part 1 – historical overview and clarification:

• The Angkor Archaeological Park
• Temple Timeline
• What is Angkor Wat?
• The Face Towers of Angkor
• Tree Roots Growing Over Stone
• Apsaras or Devatas?
• Other Posts on the Angkor Temples

Part 2 – practical advice for visiting the temples:

• Visiting the Temples
• Ticket Pricing
• Other Posts on the Angkor Temples

Part 3 – use the links below to jump to:

• Advice for Photographers
  • Commercial Photography and Videography
  • Non-commercial photography media coverage
  • Personal and social media photography and videography
  • Tripods
  • Drones and GoPro cameras
  • Forbidden Photography Zones
• The Best Temple Guidebook
• Resources
• Last Thoughts
• Other Posts on the Angkor Temples
• Camera Gear

---

Advice for Photographers

This is some general advice concerning photography at the Angkor temples – what you are allowed to do, or not. I will give more specific advice in future posts on individual temples.

Commercial photography and videography

If you want to shoot a movie or commercial anywhere in or around the temples of the Angkor Archaeological Park you need to get permission, and pay a fee. The same applies for video and photo shoots for YouTube, music videos, entertainment programs, documentaries, commercials, guidebooks, catalogues, and magazines intended for local or international distribution.

[Back to Top]

Non-commercial photography media coverage

Official news organizations, both domestic and international, must apply for permission, but are exempt from fees when conducting coverage for informational purposes.

[Back to Top]

Personal and social media photography and videography

Special permissions or fees do not apply to personal photography. This includes pre-wedding and cultural-dress photo shoots for personal use, although a commercial wedding shoot would require permission.

I’ve seen a few tourists doing personal “fashion shoots”, having brought along a bag of clothes to change into. Obviously, a commercial fashion shoot would require permission.

Note that flash photography is banned everywhere at the Angkor temples.

[Back to Top]

Tripods

There are no restrictions on using tripods at the Angkor temples for personal photography. In 2022 there was some confusion, with claims that the Apsara National Authority (ANA) had announced a ban on the use of tripods without paying for permission to do so. This was later clarified by the ANA, which was merely trying to point out that commercial photo shoots (often using tripods, but also lights, reflectors, etc.) need to pay.

If you do use a tripod, be sure not to block the main paths or become a safety hazard for other visitors, or look like a pro on a commercial shoot!

[Back to Top]

Drones and GoPro cameras

The use of drones is banned at Angkor, unless you have permission and pay a fee. Also not permitted are the use of GoPro cameras, Insta 360 cameras, or 360-degree and 180-degree view cameras.

There are prominent signs at the temples depicting these restrictions, and if you do not have permission you risk permanent drone/camera confiscation, fines, and possible detention while your case is being sorted out. Needless to say, you will not be very popular with the authorities.

Having said that, and although it is illegal to fly a drone at the Angkor temples, or even for a few miles around the temples, there is a lot of Angkor drone footage on the internet, so if you have recent experience of flying a drone over the Angkor temples, please leave a comment below (anonymously if you wish!) and I will update this post accordingly.

[Back to Top]

Forbidden Photography Zones

Besides a general ban on flash photography everywhere at the temples, there are some restrictions on what you are allowed to photograph.

You cannot take photos inside the sanctuaries on the 3rd level of Angkor Wat, at archaeological dig sites, in active restoration work sites, at guard stations, or at any official buildings.

[Back to Top]

---

The Best Temple Guidebook

To get the most out of a visit to the Angkor Archaeological Park you will need a guidebook. If you only buy one guidebook to the Angkor temples, and there are many to choose from, I would recommend:

Focusing on the Angkor Temples – The Guidebook, by Michel Petrotchenko

I have bought many other guidebooks to the temples over the years, but none of them are as good to carry around as this one. It’s full of maps, plans, and photos, and is very detailed. It’s printed on glossy paper with a flexibound cover. This is, without a doubt, the ultimate Angkor temple guidebook to carry with you.

I cannot recommend this guidebook highly enough, just buy it! You will not regret it.

It was first published in 2011, then republished again in 2012 and 2014, and the fourth edition in 2017, which is the one I have. The last copy I bought cost US$25, from the Siem Reap Book Center, next to the U-Care Pharmacy opposite Pub Street, in 2020 just before the COVID pandemic lock-downs. If you see it for sale in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh bookshops, or at the temples, please let me know where and how much in the comments below, and I’ll update this post.

Unfortunately, it looks like the fourth edition is no longer in print to buy new from Amazon. It may still be stocked in bookshops in Cambodia, and is sometimes available second-hand – check Amazon, AbeBooks, and eBay. Any edition of this guidebook would be good to have.

Another option is to buy some of the five Kindle extracts from the print edition, in the Focussing on Angkor: The Guidebooks e-book series:

• Khmer History in Angkor Times (2015)
• Khmer Religion in Angkor Times (2015)
• Angkor Temples and Architecture (2015)
• Angkor Wat (2015)
• The Bayon (2016)

These are currently available to download from Amazon USA, Amazon UK, and Amazon Australia

[Back to Top]

---

Resources

Here are some useful resources for researching the Angkor temples. Many of these books are available to purchase in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh bookshops, and the popular titles are often sold by hawkers at the Angkor temples.

Alternatively, buy online before your visit, especially if you have limited time at the temples and want to be sufficiently informed before your trip. I bought copies of all the books listed below in Siem Reap, mostly from the Siem Reap Book Center, next to the U-Care Pharmacy opposite Pub Street.

• Cultural Travel Guides: The Treasures of Angkor
  • Albanese, M. (2006). White Star Publishers. This book, by Italian freelance journalist and Sanskrit/Indology scholar Marilia Albanese, has a good introduction to Khmer culture, religion, and architectural styles. Each temple has detailed floor plans and very good photos. Worth reading to plan what to see before visiting the temples.
• The Angkor Guidebook: Your Essential Companion to the Temples
  • Booth, A. (2016). ABOUT Asia Travel. This small hardback book, complete with slip case, is more of a coffee table book than a guidebook to carry around at the temples. Containing excellent information, photos, and historical illustrations and photos, this book also has 21 full colour virtual temple restorations, by Bruno Lévy. Printed on clear overlays to photos of the temples as they are today, they show what these ruined temples would have looked like in their heyday. A beautiful book to own for research before your trip, or a great souvenir to remember the temples by.
• A History of Cambodia
  • Chandler, D. (2008). Westview Press. This book, by Australian history professor David Chandler, covers the history of Cambodia from pre-Angkor times to the end of the twentieth century. Essential background information to the history of the Angkor period, but also to the general history of Cambodia – useful for understanding the tragic history of recent times.
• Angkor: Heart of an Asian Empire
  • Dagens, B. (1995). (R. Sharman, Trans). Thames & Hudson. (Original work published 1989). This book, by French art historian Bruno Dagens, covers the story of the European rediscovery and restoration of the temples at Angkor, and contains many excellent historical photos, paintings, and line illustrations from the 19th and early 20th centuries, showing the parlous state of many of the temples at that time. Probably the best book to read if you have an interest in the state of the temples when they were rediscovered, and the amount of restoration work accomplished since.
• Ancient Angkor
  • Freeman, M., & Jacques, C. (2006). Thames & Hudson Ltd. Originally published in 1999, and then revised and republished in 2003, this is an excellent guide written by French scholar Claude Jacques, with detailed floor plans, and photos by Michael Freeman. An interesting aspect of this book are the photos – many taken in the 80s and 90s. Freeman was the first photographer allowed prolonged access to the temples after two decades of war, genocide, and civil war. Consequently, the temples are shown with vegetation spouting out of the stonework as a result of neglect due to war, but since cleaned up, which is what we see today. It would have been great to see the temples as Freeman saw them.
• Angkor Wat: The Ancient Chronicles of Cambodia’s Stone Giant
  • Get.factual (2023). History documentary [YouTube]. A 55-minute documentary examining the why? and how? of Angkor Wat’s construction. Shows how the use of satellite imagery and LiDAR mapping are furthering this understanding. Mention is made of the importance of the surrounding moat, which for centuries has kept the subsoil under the temple moist, and thereby prevented collapse. Well worth watching.
• National Geographic: Angkor Wat – Access 360 World Heritage
  • National Geographic (2013). History documentary [YouTube]. An interesting 22-minute documentary about new discoveries at Angkor using LiDAR mapping technology for aerial archaeology. Using this technology, structures hidden by the jungle for centuries become visible and can be located on the ground.
• National Geographic: Engineering the Impossible – Angkor Wat
  • National Geographic (2007). History documentary [DVD]. This 50-minute documentary examines the period of Khmer history when Angkor Wat was built. It covers the construction methods and engineering of the temple, and the vast infrastructure of waterways, farmland, and people required to achieve it. Archaeologists in the documentary posit that Angkor Wat, being permanently surrounded by a moat for centuries, is actually “floating” on saturated subsoil and therefore was not subjected to the expansion and contraction of the subsoil caused by the annual wet and dry seasons, and so avoided the collapse experienced by many other temples.
• Angkor: Celestial Temples of the Khmer Empire
  • Ortner, J. (2002). Abbeville Press. This is a book of Angkor temple photos by photographer Jon Ortner, with captions by several authors, and detailed sections on history, religion, culture, the Angkorean calendar, architecture, conservation, geography, and hydrology, also written by contributing authors. It includes Angkor temples in Thailand, too. This is a good book for researching Angkor and working out what to see, but not really a guidebook to carry around like Petrotchenko’s guide.
• The Mekong: Turbulent Past, Uncertain Future
  • Osborne, M. (2001). Grove Press. The history of the Mekong River over the last 2000 years, including its importance in the rise of the Khmer empire of Angkor.
• Southeast Asia: An introductory History
  • Osborne, M. (2021). (13th ed.). Allen & Unwin. A general history of southeast Asia, and good for understanding how ancient cultures in the region have influenced modern societies.
• Focussing on the Angkor Temples: The Guidebook
  • Petrotchenko, M. (2017). (4th ed.). Michel Petrotchenko (Pub.) If you only want to buy one guidebook to the temples at Angkor, Petrotchenko’s book is probably the best. The floor plans are excellent and clearly marked with the features not to miss, and there are many photos. History, chronology of Angkorean kings, religion, architectural features – it’s all covered. I have found it to be the best guidebook to carry around at the temples.
• Angkor: Cambodia’s Wondrous Khmer Temples
  • Rooney, D. (2011). (6th ed). Odyssey Guides. A very good guide to the Angkor temples, including extensive historical background, and coverage of restoration, culture, religion, and architecture, by art historian, Dawn Rooney. Good photos and information on individual temples, with basic floor plans – not as good as the floor plans in Petrotchenko’s guidebook – but, at just under 500 pages, and weighing 860gms (1.9 lbs) it is not really a book you would carry around all day. Excellent for research, though.
• Angkor: Why an Ancient Civilisation Collapsed
  • Stone, R. (2009, July). National Geographic. The article is also known as Divining Angkor on the National Geographic website, if you are a subscriber. It discusses how the city of Angkor may have engineered its own downfall. If you can obtain a copy of the print magazine it also included a large supplemental map, Southeast Asia: Monsoon Latitudes, on the reverse of which is an excellent graphic of the Khmer empire with photos, illustrations and a historical timeline.
• Angkor Wat: The Ancient Mystery Of Cambodia’s Lost Capital – City of the God-Kings
  • Timeline (2017). History documentary [YouTube]. A 50-minute documentary, with a somewhat misleading title, examining the history of the city of Angkor, the Angkor kingdom, and Khmer culture – not just Angkor Wat as the title suggests – and uses satellite imagery and LiDAR mapping to further understand how this great empire evolved. Includes some photos from the 19th century, and early film – what you see now is nothing like what was discovered in the 1860s!
• There are sections on the temples at Angkor in various travel guidebooks, such as Lonely Planet, Rough Guides, and DK Eyewitness Travel, although they are usually brief, have few photos, and lack detailed floor plans.

[Back to Top]

---

Last Thoughts

If you are a keen photographer visiting the Angkor temples, the last advice I would give is to plan ahead – read Petrotchenko’s guidebook, and carry it with you – try not to look like a pro, and most importantly, slow down.

Research into the temples will pay off when you find yourself in the right place at the right time, and if you want your visit to the Angkor temples to be rewarding, it’s probably a good idea to inform yourself about:

• The architecture and construction of the temples – what the various building features are, and their function. Then you will know what the guidebooks are talking about.
• A knowledge of Hindu and Buddhist mythology, which informs a lot of the building designs and the stories carved in stone (particularly the bas-reliefs), so you know what you are looking at.
• The geopolitics of ancient SE Asia, which led to frequent wars with the neighbouring Cham and Siamese kingdoms over several centuries. There is a reason for so many bas-relief scenes of battles and war elephants!
• The history of European rediscovery and temple restoration, because what you see now is nothing like what the first European explorers found. Even Ta Prohm, with its controlled “wild state”, cutback vegetation, and restored stonework, is nothing like the condition in which it was found. Probably the temple in the closest state to how it was discovered is Beng Mealea, a real “Indiana Jones” type environment of jungle and ruins, but even there, there are now elevated boardwalks over the ruins.

With increased knowledge, you will probably find yourself spending longer at the temples, and really appreciating the skills of the ancient builders and stonemasons.

Slowing down means you can afford to wait for the perfect shot, the “hero” shot. I’ve seen many tourists rushing around grabbing shots at as many temples as they can visit in a day – a visual record of their trip. Maybe they have limited time, or minimal interest in the history and mythology, and quick grab shots will suffice, but if you want to capture really good images, I would advise you to be informed about what you are photographing, and importantly, slow down.

There are hundreds of tourists at the popular temples, so you need to be prepared to wait if you are hoping for a tourist-free shot. It is a valid concern, because, for some of my images I have had to wait 30 or 40 minutes to get the shot, and in some cases the tourist-free window was only one or two seconds! Be ready to press that shutter button!

The Bayon and Ta Prohm temples get particularly busy, especially if you want a shot of the “Tomb Raider” tree – any tree roots, actually – or an enigmatic stone face. If you want to avoid being part of the crowds, like in the images above and below, try to arrive early, when many tourists will be eating breakfast in their hotels.

Sometimes, the wait for a tourist-free shot of the tree roots at Ta Prohm temple is so long that the tourists become the subject!

If you are not able to avoid the crowds, Lightroom may be a solution. The latest (June 2025) versions of Lightroom Classic (14.4), and Lightroom (8.4) now include “AI people removal”. I have not tried it, but it could significantly reduce your waiting times to get perfect shots. If you have used this LR feature please leave a comment – I would be very interested to know how successful it is, particularly with complex backgrounds or crowd scenes, like those above.

[Back to Top]

---

Other Posts on the Angkor Temples

This post, Part 3, contains general photographic advice and some useful resources for researching the temples.

Part 1 is a general introduction to Angkor, mainly a historical overview and some clarification.

Part 2 contains practical advice for visiting the temples.

Other posts in this series will address individual temples, with tips for getting the most out of your visit photographically. If there is a hyperlink in the list below, I have written the post.

These blog posts, based on my experiences, may help you get some great images. I hope you will be inspired!

• Angkor Thom – Ancient Khmer City
  • The walled capital city of the Khmer Angkorean empire for over 200 years. Enjoy some seclusion by walking along the top of the the city walls, far from the madding crowd.
• Angkor Thom – Elephant Terrace
  • Where the king used to dispense justice to his subjects, review military parades, and mount his elephant – luxury transport back in the day.
• Angkor Thom – Royal Palace Compound & Phimeanakas Temple
  • Not a lot remains, other than the Phimeanakis Temple and the Royal Pond, as the Royal Palace was a timber building, but the steps down to the pond are worth a closer look.
• Angkor Thom – Suor Prat, the Khleangs, and Preah Pitu
  • There is no consensus about the functions of these buildings – are they sanctuaries, storehouses, or function rooms? Generally deserted, as not many people have time to visit.
• Angkor Thom – Terrace of the Leper King
  • The inner wall carvings are in excellent condition – being undiscovered until restoration work in the 1990s, due to being back-filled with dirt after a partial collapse of the original wall necessitated the construction of a new outer wall.
• Angkor Wat – Introduction
  • Who built Angkor Wat? How long did it take? How was it built? The largest religious structure in the world with so much to see you could spend days there!
• Angkor Wat – Western Gate
  • The usual entry point for a visit to the temple after crossing the moat – with 258 devatas carved into the walls of the western gate, there is a lot to explore.
• Angkor Wat – Eastern Gate
  • Often ignored, but an alternative entry point to the temple – well-worth a visit for the interesting devata carvings and bas-reliefs, and lack of tourists.
• Angkor Wat – Cruciform Galleries
  • Dancing apsaras and beautiful devatas decorate the walls of the four inner courtyards – timing is critical to get shadow-free images of the devatas.
• Angkor Wat – 2^nd Level
  • Over 200 devatas – including eccentric hairstyles, groups of ladies, toothy twins, and even an angry looking devata – and access to the 3rd Level.
• Angkor Wat – 3^rd Level
  • Is it worth the wait to get up to the 3rd level to see some fine examples of the Khmer stonemason’s art? Yes, definitely, and there is a way to avoid the tourist crowds and the long queue, too.
• Angkor Wat – Sunrise and Sunset
  • Is it worth the effort, and the waiting, for what may be slightly disappointing, or even underwhelming?
• Banteay Kdei
  • A smaller version of Ta Prohm and Preah Khan – and less crowded with tourists – this Buddhist monastic complex has a well preserved face tower on the Eastern Gate, and some lovely devata carvings.
• Banteay Samre
  • Out of the way, rarely visited by tourists – you could have the place to yourself, almost!
• Banteay Srei
  • Superbly detailed small temple, and the first in Cambodia to be restored using the anastylosis method of reconstruction. Get there early to avoid the crowds!
• Baphuon
  • Restoration, interrupted! Did this result in the biggest three-dimensional puzzle in the world? A remarkable reconstruction!
• Bayon – Face Towers
  • Enigmatic and gigantic, 173 stone faces adorn the remaining 37 towers on the upper-level cruciform platform. Why are they there, and whose face is it?
• Bayon – Bas-reliefs
  • The religious, military and everyday life of the Khmer empire, carved in stone.
• Bayon – Devatas and Apsaras
  • Are all the carvings of beautiful ladies Apsaras? Are Devatas and Apsaras the same thing, or is there a difference between them?
• Face Towers at the Angkor Temples
  • Which temples have giant stone faces – not Angkor Wat! – and whose face is it anyway?
• Frame the Shot
  • Using the technique of hard and soft framing to emphasise architectural features.
• Preah Khan – Eastern Entry
  • Eastern entry and moat. This magnificent entrance was the main entry to Preah Khan, and if you go there first you will avoid the crowds for a couple of hours, as most visitors arrive at the Western entry.
• Preah Khan – Hall of Dancers
  • Hall of Dancers and the east section and Library building – probably the best preserved Hall of Dancers at Angkor.
• Preah Khan – Central Courtyards
  • Central section courtyards, chapels, and some beautifully carved devatas – sometimes hard to find!
• Preah Khan – Western Entry
  • Western entry and temple. This is where most visitors enter Preah Khan, so it is usually crowded – but it is the back of the temple!
• Ta Prohm
  • Although originally left in more-or-less the condition in which it was found to provide a romantic vision of the ruins, this temple has undergone extensive restoration. There is more to Ta Prohm than tree roots growing over stone – a four-faced tower, fine carvings, even a carved dinosaur (?) medallion!
• Ta Prohm – Tree Roots
  • There is a reason the “Tomb Raider” temple is so popular with tourists – photogenic tree roots everywhere!
• Tree Roots at the Angkor Temples
  • Which temples have tree roots growing over the stonework? Quite a few, but not Angkor Wat!

[Back to Top]

---

Camera Gear

All images in this post were shot either:

• Using Fuji Sensia transparency film in Olympus OM1 cameras, with Zuiko lenses – transparencies were then scanned using a Nikon ED5000 film scanner and processed in Photoshop
• Or, shot in RAW using digital Nikon camera bodies, with Nikkor Pro f2.8 lenses, and then processed in Lightroom and Photoshop.
• Or, shot in RAW using digital Olympus OMD camera bodies, with Zuiko PRO f2.8 lenses, and then processed in Lightroom and Photoshop.

All images Copyright ©2025 Rick Piper Photography (unless noted otherwise). All rights reserved.

[Back to Top]